Weiden in der Oberpfalz: A Taste of La Dolce Vita in Eastern Bavaria

If only he could have traveled south in our time! He would have found the perfect prelude to Italy right here in Weiden. But in 1786, when Goethe stayed at the postal station on the Upper Market Square during his journey to Italy, Weiden was still in a deep Sleeping Beauty slumber.

Today, Mr. Goethe might sit at a café on the Piazza, ordering an espresso or cappuccino. He’d watch the people strolling by, leaning in close for a quick chat, or filling the café and restaurant chairs. Much like the beloved scenes of everyday life in the land of longing beyond the Alps.

The Old Town Hall: Inside Traditionally German, Outside an Ice Cream Parlor

The locals of Weiden lovingly refer to their market square as their “living room,” thanks to its impressive number of cafés and restaurants. Students from the local technical university and schoolchildren add a youthful energy to the scene. Large umbrellas stretch over tables and chairs, ready to shield visitors should the Upper Palatinate’s weather take an un-Italian turn.

A delightful example of this Southern Upper Palatinate lifestyle can be found at Piccola Venezia on the west side of the Old Town Hall. For over 25 years, it has been serving specialty gelato. White café tables and sun umbrellas exude Italian charm, while the dark wood interior of the town hall offers a traditionally German atmosphere. The ceiling in the large council chamber, with its broad beams, is still the original from the 16th century.

There’s Plenty of Music to Go Around! And Lots of Color

The lengthy market square in Weiden is divided into the Upper Market and the Lower Market, each accessed through a city gate. In the center of the square stands the freestanding Old Town Hall. Its carillon, located above the western staircase, plays daily at 11:35 a.m. and 4:35 p.m. The repertoire includes 99 melodies, ranging from traditional to modern.

Lining the Piazza are 16th-century townhouses  with carefully restored façades painted in yellow, blue, rust-red, white, or pale orange. Their gables rise skyward in a variety of styles – pointed, stepped, or curved. The square comes alive every Wednesday and Saturday with the weekly and farmers’ markets. Regional vendors sell a wide array of goods, from vegetables and fruit to bread, meat, and freshly made pasta. Weiden’s market rights were first mentioned in 1331, cementing its long tradition as a vibrant trading hub.

Zoigl Beer: A Taste of the Upper Palatinate

Surely, Mr. Goethe would have found his way to the "Kloine Zoigl-Stub’n Zum Stich’n". This cozy Upper Palatinate pub, near the Lower Gate, is as rustic as Auerbach’s Cellar – but instead of wine, it serves a regional specialty: Zoiglbeer. This bottom-fermented beer is brewed collectively by private individuals and then fermented individually in their own cellars.

“We get our Zoigl from nearby Windisch-Eschenbach, a Zoigl stronghold,” explains Petra, the innkeeper, from the comfort of the snug taproom. With three or four wooden tables, a white tiled stove, and small historic photos on the green-painted walls, the setting is simple yet inviting. A taxidermied capercaillie bird adds a slight touch of kitsch.

„In summer, especially on balmy evenings, the atmosphere feels almost Italian“

The Zoigl beer, glowing a deep amber in its glass stein, is smooth, mildly malty, and low in hops. It’s served with simple snacks like cold cuts and cheese plates, or 'Brotzeit' in German. “What’s important with Zoigl is sitting together at the table, even if you don’t know each other. And, of course, everyone’s on a first-name basis,” Petra says, summing up the etiquette of Zoigl culture. “In summer, especially on balmy evenings, the atmosphere feels almost Italian.” Outside the "Kloine Zoigl-Stub’n Zum Stich’n"wooden benches invite visitors to rest and watch passersby.

St. Michael: A View All the Way to the North Sea?

For a lovely view over the market square and Old Town, head to the tower of the Evangelical St. Michael’s Church. The tower, crowned with a baroque double dome, is a landmark of Weiden. “At a height of just over 30 meters, you can see the foothills of the Upper Palatinate Forest, the volcanic cones Parkstein and Rauher Kulm, and even the North Sea...” Christian Stahl, the tower keeper, adds with a grin, enjoying the joke – even though the fish shop of the same name is long gone. He is one of seven tower keepers represented in the European Night Watchmen and Tower Keepers Guild.

Unusually, St. Michael’s Church was shared by Catholics and Protestants during the so-called Simultaneum period from 1663 to 1900.

Another artistic gem is St. Joseph’s Church, just a short walk further north. Its exterior is neo-Romanesque, while its interior is pure Art Nouveau. Paintings in bold, dark colors depict scenes from the Old and New Testaments, flanked by life-sized stucco sculptures.

When sunlight streams into the church, the gold tones of the paintings and mosaics shimmer with a mysterious and beautiful glow. Many art enthusiasts visit Weiden specifically to see this church.

A Railroad Revival

Weiden was first mentioned in a document in 1241. Its rise began in 1353 when Emperor Charles IV  incorporated the city into his “New Bohemia” territory, making it an important customs hub. It lies at the intersection of the Magdeburg Road, which stretches from northern Europe to northern Italy, and the Golden Road, which connects Prague and Nuremberg.

The Thirty Years’ War marked a period of decline for Weiden,  but the city regained momentum with its connection to the railroad network. Numerous factories were established, including the porcelain manufacturers Bauscher in 1881 and Seltmann in 1910. Witt, a mail-order company, relocated to Weiden in 1913.

After World War II, Weiden became a new home for refugees. Around 10,000 displaced people settled in the city, contributing significantly to its economic recovery. Among the beneficiaries was Seltmann Weiden, a family-run porcelain manufacturer now managed by the fourth generation.

Factory tour in Erbendorf, just north of Weiden, where the waste heat from the kilns keeps the factory halls warm. The air is filled with the loud squeaks, hisses, hums, and roars of machinery. Bright orange robotic arms move tirelessly, handling unbaked plates, trimming their edges, and then cleaning and polishing them.

Approximately 1.3 million pieces leave the production halls every month

“We produce all flatware, like plates, fully automatically,” explains department manager Roland Wende. “From granulate and pressing to firing and glazing. Only hollowware, such as bowls, still requires handcrafting.” Approximately 1.3 million pieces leave the production halls every month.

Currently, food bowls of all kinds are in high demand. “We can barely keep up with production,” says the department manager.

Max Reger: Anything But Easy Listening

Judith Bauer, however, takes a completely hands-on approach. A violin maker born and raised in Weiden, she spent many years training in Italy and working in Portugal. Now back in her hometown, she builds, repairs, and rents violins, violas, and cellos. In her workshop, string instruments in warm reddish-brown hues line the walls. Now back in her hometown, she appreciates Weiden’s manageable size and proximity to nature.

And what does she think of Weiden’s most famous son, composer Max Reger? “Well, he’s not exactly my favorite composer, but there are some pieces I like,” she says with a mischievous smile.

Reger’s music – and more – can be heard during the Max Reger Days in September and October, an excellent classical music festival. World-class artists also perform at the long-standing Weidener Meisterkonzerte (Weiden Master Concerts), held from October to May. “The Max Reger Hall has amazing acoustics for these concerts,” says the violin maker.

Max Reger was born in 1873 in the Fichtelgebirge region  and spent his childhood and youth in Weiden – the longest period of his life and one that was marked by setbacks. He passed away in 1916.

The City Museum, housed in the Old Schoolhouse, features a room dedicated to the composer. On display is the piano on which Max Reger once played. Reger’s music, straddling the late Romantic and modern periods, is far from easy listening, with his organ compositions standing out in particular. “Max Reger is sometimes called the last giant of music."

His work is considered quintessentially German and requires effort to fully appreciate,” says Dr. Sebastian Schott of the City Museum. For many, his music is too bombastic and complex; for others, however – perhaps precisely because of this –  it represents the pinnacle of artistic expression.

Dining Out

Two popular spots at the Upper Market offer unforgettable culinary experiences. Night owls and day wanderers alike will feel right at home in the stylishly designed "Zimmer Nr. 22, which aims to be a “second living room.” This young venue combines a bar, café, and restaurant, complete with a terrace, and spans three floors.

At the trendy "Das Louis" – part restaurant, part pub, and part wine bar – guests can enjoy regional and international dishes in a modern setting, such as Upper Palatinate char fillet or beef filet in creamy Stroganoff sauce. Delicious!