Weingut Schenk: Der Jungwinzer in seinen Weinbergen
Hand-picked ethos

Thomas Schenk does not just produce seriously good wine. He also does it in a way that is as responsible and sustainable as possible, as we found out when we called in to see him

Winemaker Thomas Schenk

The River Main winds through the valley in a broad loop. The half-timbered buildings of the small town of Randersacker are clustered along its banks. Above it, the vineyards stretch upwards on hills so steep you find yourself looking for the nearest cable car.

Thomas Schenk laughs. “Vineyards with a 70 percent gradient are just part and parcel of winemaking in Franconia,” explains the young winemaker from Randersacker. “In other regions, the vines grow on flat land, and they can work with machinery. We can’t do that on our steep slopes.

We do everything by hand, investing love and a lot of time. And you can taste that in our wines.”

Thomas Schenk is in his early thirties and runs the Weingut Schenk, a family winery. Over his seven hectares, he grows varieties such as the Silvaner, found extensively throughout Franconia, and also Riesling, Spätburgunder and Scheurebe. Unlike his grandparents, however, who operate a winery as a sideline and sell their wine in bulk, Thomas has set himself some high targets.

Code of ethics for vines and employees

Not only does he want to make really good wine, but to do so as responsibly as possible. “Vines have been growing on the slopes around Randersacker for 1,250 years,” says the young winemaker.

“I definitely don’t want to be the last person to make a living here from making wine. So I have to work out how we can produce wine sustainably. How winemaking can continue to thrive in the future. It’s not just about the environment, but also about our families and our village communities.”

Weingut Schenk: Die frisch geernteten Silvaner-Trauben des Familienbetriebs

On the search for answers, Thomas has joined forces with twelve young winemakers from all across Franconia to form a group known as “Ethos”, which has developed its own code of ethics.

“Our wines are not off-the-peg"

They feel that vineyards should not be seen purely as usable area but as an entire ecosystem, whose biodiversity must be preserved. “In practical terms that means, for example, that we don’t use any herbicides or insecticides on the vines, but instead work with biological methods,” explains Thomas.

“These biological methods only work when they are applied across the board, which is why I’m organising their application for all my winemaking colleagues in Randersacker.

What’s more, we are planting the edges of the vineyards to ensure there is always something flowering there – wild poppies, clover, mallow – and to create a suitable habitat for insects. We are also committed to preserving our steep slopes, which are part of our Franconian cultural heritage.”

Weingut Schenk: Die erdigen Hände auf dem Etikett spiegeln die Handarbeit wider

Earthy Silvaner, dirty fingers

After training as a winemaker, Thomas studied viticulture and has been running the family business since 2015. His parents and his wife work alongside him and he hires plenty of temporary help for the vineyards – pensioners, students, housewives, even a Syrian family.

“They have all long since become our friends. As an “Ethos” winemaker it is important to me that our employees feel comfortable and are paid a fair wage. And that the village community is on board. We donate to charities and play an active role in village life.”

Weingut Schenk: Die Steillagen werden in Handarbeit bewirtschaftet

Wine is made in the vineyard

As a winemaker, Thomas Schenk is one of the purists who make wine in the vineyard. “That’s precisely where it gets exciting. It’s all about nuances and trends. You have to be able to guess what’s going on in the soil and the leaves,” enthuses the young man, who is passionate about the Silvaner grape. “The Silvaner doesn’t pander to the palate with fruitiness and a sweet-sour interaction, but stands by its earthy, austere taste. I like that!”

Like all wines made by Thomas, the Silvaner bottles also stand out for their unusual labels: they depict the rather dirty fingers of a worker positioned as if they are holding onto the bottle. A design that was a deliberate choice of this young winemaker. “Our wines are not off-the-peg. I prune every single vine myself. Getting your hands dirty is unavoidable when you work on such steep vineyards. Why not show that to the customer?”

More about Thomas' wines and his philosophy at weingut-schenk.de

Sehenswürdigkeiten in Würzburg: Residenz. Das UNESCO Weltkulturerbe ist ein beeindruckendes Barockschloss und eine der wichtigsten Sehenswürdigkeiten in Würzburg

... from Thomas

Würzburg Residenz and courtyard garden
The district of Mainfranken is full of culture. In Würzburg there is the Würzburg Residenz, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, behind which you can find a secret gem – the courtyard garden. This is a beautiful Baroque garden, where you can sit on a bench and enjoy some heavenly peace and tranquillity – in the heart of the city!
residenz-wuerzburg.de

Heckenwirtschaft
We serve wine in our winery in spring and autumn. In Franconia, we call these seasonal wine bars Heckenwirtschaft, or hedgerow inns. We serve glasses of our wine and offer something to eat on the side. We only work with regional partners here. From the local butcher to the cheese dairy and even the mineral water – all our products are sourced from a radius of less than 50 kilometres, preferably from small producers.

You will always find a couple of genuine Franconian classics on the menu, which go well with the Silvaner – Bratwurst sausages of all complexions, “Blaue Zipfel” marinated sausages and other Franconian charcuterie. The walls of our Heckenwirtschaft are over 300 years old and were built from the stones dug up in our vineyards. They are immensely warm and comforting.

More stories about wine, beer and good food

Silvia Beyer: Bei Pfronten betreibt sie die erste vegetarische Berghütte in den Alpen

Mountain hut owner Silvia Beyer

Instead of Schnitzel and cold meats, the menu of the Hündeleskopfhütte offers vegan cheese spätzle and zucchini lasagne

Read more

Michelin star chef Valentin Rottner

Wood sorrel in the sorbet, moss as decoration, home-shot game on the plate. The working philosophy of Valentin Rottner from Nuremberg

Read more
Gesundheitsuntersuchung eines Spiegelkarpfens

Round and healthy

From September to April, gourmets make a pilgrimage to the Franconian Aischgrund region to enjoy the carp bred there. We tasted them

Read more
Winzerin Katharina Geißendörfer bei der Arbeit im Weinberg

Winemaker Katharina Geißendörfer

Winemaker Katharina Geißendörfer gives new life to her family’s Franconian winery. We accompanied her to the vineyard

Read more
Gastronom Stefan Fuß aus Rohrbach in Bayerisch-Schwaben

Fine local dining

Chef Stefan Fuß focuses on regional-sustainable cuisine with local producers. For this, his restaurant in Rohrbach received the Green Michelin star

Read more
Mathias Rippstein: Aus der Heckenwirtschaft, die in Franken seit dem Mittelalter Tradition haben, wurde eine Heckenstube

Who cooked it up?

We explore "Why is "Federweiser" called "Bremser"?" and other questions. And we reveal some recommended wineries and hedge inns

Read more

News from Bavaria

Get first-hand tips on stories, travel reports and events!