Neuburg an der Donau – Things to See!

Prost! Apothecary Lucrezia, born in the early 17th century, offers her protégés a glass of herbal liqueur—homemade, of course. Ah, that hits the spot. It tastes pleasantly sweet and soothes the stomach. It helps to digest some of the many details from the exciting city tour with the theme “Of Witches, Healers, and Rascals.”

In her non-costumed life, Lucrezia is simply called Margit. The art historian with a doctorate is one of the guides who, dressed as historical figures, lead very informative and entertaining walks through Neuburg.

The small city with 30,000 inhabitants is picturesquely located in the Danube Valley, between the Franconian Jura low mountain range to the north and the Donaumoos moorland area and hilly countryside to the south. The historic upper town sits high on a Jura rock above the river. It is perfectly preserved, impeccably restored, and is considered one of the most beautiful Renaissance complexes in Bavaria.

The Mint and the Witches’ Dungeon

“We are standing on ancient settlement ground. There were Bronze Age settlements here, and traces of the Celts have also been discovered. A Roman fort once stood right where we are,” says Lucrezia.

In the tower of the mighty building, “witches” were imprisoned.

The group gathers in a small courtyard in front of the so-called Münz. The oldest building in the city housed the mint. And in the tower of the mighty house, “witches” were imprisoned before they were executed. The cruel persecution of “witches” and “sorcerers” raged especially between the late 16th and late 17th centuries. It was a time marked by the Little Ice Age, with much rain, frost even in the summer, and poor harvests.

This was inexplicable to many people, so supernatural forces were believed to be at work. It was fertile ground for conspiracy theories. The “guilty” were quickly “accused,” that is, “slandered.” “This particularly affected people who had made themselves unpopular or were in the public eye, such as bakers’, butchers’, or even apothecaries’ wives,” according to Lucrezia.

Karlsplatz—The Heart of the Upper Town

The hillside terraces are called “Hutzeldörre,” which means “dried pear”.

The walk continues along the inner city wall and through the former court garden on the southern Old Town hill. “The hillside terraces are called ‘Hutzeldörre’ – Hutzel means ‘dried pear.’ Why? This is where the older noble ladies liked to sunbathe,” Lucrezia smiles ironically.

We pass by an herb garden where everyone is free to help themselves. Greenery sprouts on both sides of the path, and the May sun peeks through the canopy of leaves. A tree peacefully grows from a narrow arrow slit in the wall, ivy covers the wall, and birds are chirping.

We’ve reached the heart of the upper town: the spacious Karlsplatz square. Beautifully surrounded by up to 200-year-old lime trees and stately houses from the Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo periods. In the middle of the gravel area, the elegant Marienbrunnen fountain catches the eye.

The court church and town hall with its double staircase dominate the piazza to the east. On the west side, the Rococo facade of the provincial library stands out, with its magnificent library hall featuring baroque cabinetry inside.

The 200-Kilo Man: Ottheinrich

The Wittelsbach nobility Ottheinrich (1502 to 1559), a 200-kilo man with a chest circumference of over two meters and the epitome of a lively Renaissance ruler, shaped Neuburg like no other. The principality of Palatinate-Neuburg existed from 1505 to 1808—a curious construct of six scattered territories that today lie in Swabia, Upper Bavaria, Middle Franconia, and the Upper Palatinate.

Ottheinrich was the first Count Palatine and ruled for more than three decades starting in 1522. He introduced the Reformation, promoted science and the arts, commissioned portraits and monumental tapestries, collected books, and had a precious manuscript of the Bible completed, the famous Ottheinrich Bible. And yet, he was constantly on the brink of bankruptcy...

Ottheinrich expanded the town’s palace in the Renaissance style, and it was later expanded. Today, it stands as a complex with four imposing wings around a courtyard with arcades and Sgraffito, images created using a sophisticated stucco technique.

The palace chapel is one of the oldest Protestant church spaces in the world, and the Baroque palace grottoes are equally remarkable. The palace, with its two round towers gleaming brightly, forms one of Bavaria’s most beautiful historical city silhouettes along the Danube River.

Enjoy Rubens & Co. in Peace

Inside the palace, a museum sheds light on the history of the House of Palatinate-Neuburg and its key figures. Margit, the next day in civilian clothes as a museum guide, points to a portrait depicting Wolfgang of Palatinate-Zweibrücken and Neuburg. A Wittelsbach with a lasting impact on all of Bavaria: “Wolfgang became the founding father of the Palatinate-Birkenfeld line through his son Karl. And from this family branch, the later Bavarian kings descended. All living Wittelsbachs today are thus descended from him.”

"All living Wittelsbachs today are thus descended from him.“

The people of Neuburg are particularly and rightly proud of the collection of Flemish Baroque paintings in the palace. “It ranks alongside the collections in Madrid, Vienna, or Munich,” says Margit with delight. “Anyone who is passionate about Flemish painting must come to Neuburg!”

The star of the collection is Peter Paul Rubens. The Duke of Palatinate-Neuburg, Wolfgang Wilhelm, once commissioned Rubens to paint altarpieces for the court church. Today, two of these paintings hang in the beautiful, modernly designed museum. And you can admire them in complete peace, without any crowds or hustle.

A Renaissance Extravaganza Every Two Years

„We regularly welcome Spandiatori, flag bearers, from Italy to join us.“

With such a beautiful old town and palace backdrop, a historic festival is practically a must. And the “Friends of the City of Neuburg Association” has answered the call. Every two years, in the upper town, they organize the Schlossfest, a Renaissance extravaganza. “It always takes place on the last weekend of June and the first weekend of July,” reports chairman Friedhelm Lahn.

It has everything: dancing, music, theater, equestrian games, food stalls, traditional crafts, and much more. “We regularly welcome Spandiatori, flag bearers, from Italy to join us.” Highlights include the grand parade with over 2,000 participants and a fireworks display. Then the streets echo with three cheers of “Jungpfalz Neuburg, vivat hoch!”—or “Long Live Jungpfalz Neuburg!”

Get Out Into Nature!

A visit to Neuburg can easily be combined with nature experiences. Just east of the city, a large riparian forest area stretches along the Danube all the way to Ingolstadt. A green paradise! It can be explored on six themed trails, ranging from 1.5 to 26 kilometers in length. Additionally, an information center at the Grünau Hunting Lodge provides insights about the Auwald, from its ecological importance to the topic of flooding.

You will often see cyclists passing through this riparian zone. The Altmühltal Nature Park, with its many recreational opportunities, lies just north of the Danube, and is also right at your doorstep.

Sundowner or Slow Food?

Gentle evening light reflects on the gray-brown water of the Danube quay. The water flows swiftly by, rippling at the surface. Swallows skim the water in low flight and rise into the air. People stroll along the quay, cyclists pass on the Danube cycle path, and the imposing palace dominates the background.

It’s time for a sundowner at the café or a cozy beer garden—or perhaps dinner on the large terrace of the Greek restaurant “Neo Kastro,” which translates to “Neuburg.” “In addition to meat dishes, we usually have sea bass and dorado on the menu,” says young restaurateur Nico.

The days when Neuburg fishermen pulled huchen, catfish, and the bony “spitfish” bream from the Danube are long gone. There were also many backwaters with mussels, which were once a poor man’s food!

Modern Bavarian cuisine can be enjoyed towards the city center at the traditional restaurant “Neuwirt,” either in the cozy wood-paneled parlor or the covered courtyard beer garden. For ten years, “Neuwirt,” which also includes a hotel, has been featured in the Slow Food Guide.

“We cook seasonally, source locally—within a 80-kilometer radius—and attach great importance to the meat we prepare coming from humane husbandry,” explains head chef Anke Deiml.

Especially popular dishes include the pork roast and onion roast. “We slow-cook the meat for at least twelve hours at low temperatures,” says Anke. She has also created a “Neu-Burger” with organic ground beef, “the best burger in town.”

Down-to-Earth from the Vineyard

Oenological delights await visitors outside the city walls. It’s no surprise either: The Romans brought viticulture to the Danube near Neuburg. It ended around 1770, but Josef Tremml revived the tradition. “I started in 1991 with no knowledge, just the voles,” laughs the former novice. By now, he has completed formal winemaking training and is something of an old hand in the vineyard. He now owns two vineyards, in the districts of Bittenbrunn and Ried.

Visitors can sample Tremml’s wines upon reservation at “Zum Weinbauern” in Eulatal, with views of the Danube and Neuburg. “I do all the work in the vineyard by hand,” Josef explains. “No rotten grapes make it into the harvest with me—clean fruit is essential.”

The glasses glow pink with the field blend, i.e. a wine made from different grape varieties that grow in one vineyard and are harvested at the same time. The wine, called “Vinum Vernaculum,” or “the Down-to-Earth,” has a fruity, earthy character thanks to the water-retaining Jura soil. “The Down-to-Earth” tastes appropriately fruity, with balanced acidity and residual sweetness. Prost, Neuburg!