A City Stroll Through Neu-Ulm

Early in the morning, we’re we are well up for an island: Just 400 meters long, this little stretch of land splits the mighty Danube River into the “Big Danube” and the “Small Danube.”

A short walk later, at the Schwal, where the two rivers come together, generations of emigrants once said their farewells to the beautiful twin city. It must have been doubly painful, as the view of Ulm’s Old Town and its magnificent minster from the island is nothing short of phenomenal.

From here, the so-called Ulmer Schachtel boats set off on their journeys, heading first to Vienna and then onward to Southeastern Europe. Despite their unassuming name – which translates to “Ulm Boxes” – these boats were a common mode of transport for goods and troops from the Middle Ages through the early modern period. They resembled Viking ships, however, they featured cabins.

Today, these vessels are experiencing a revival as popular excursion boats. A sign at the Schwal indicates the river’s total journey to the Black Sea: 2,586 kilometers. But we’re staying local, embarking on a 14-kilometer hike through Neu-Ulm and its counterpart across the river.

While Ulm, on the Baden-Württemberg side, is famed for its half-timbered charm and the world’s tallest church, Neu-Ulm on the Bavarian side offers a much more modern vibe –  something we notice right away.

Maxplatz square, which was redesigned for the State Garden Show in 1980, features colorful seating and oversized aphorisms painted onto the pavement.

St. Baptist: The Spaceship Church

Just around the corner stands St. Johann Baptist, the city parish church that offers the ultimate contrast to the Ulm Minster.

In the 1920s, the neo-Romanesque predecessor from the mid-19th century underwent a radical transformation by architect Dominikus Böhm – a kind of punk rock star of church design. His redesign was heavily influenced by the Expressionist movement of the time.

While the façade retains a playful Italian charm, the interior is dominated by raw concrete, rarely seen as delicately crafted as in this massive vault, where light and shadow travel in fascinating patterns overhead. If the space reminds you of sci-fi dystopias à la George Lucas or Ridley Scott, you’re not far off. Both filmmakers were inspired by Fritz Lang’s futuristic vision Metropolis, a blockbuster from the same era when Böhm was shaking up church architecture.

St. Johann Baptist is also the starting point for the Lauschtour circuit, an audio-guided walking tour that offers fascinating and informative insights into Neu-Ulm. It’s available for free through the Lauschtour app.

Our walk takes us through a tranquil villa district, reminiscent of the time when Neu-Ulm was established as a political municipality in 1811, following a decree by King Max I. The first houses were built on the main streets where the people of Ulm previously had their gardens.

In the Stadtpark Glacis City Park, we encounter remnants of a massive fortification system, resembling a moraine of red brick that stretches toward ponds, fountains, and an open-air stage.

Construction of the Federal Fortress of Ulm began in 1844. This polygonal colossus sprawled across large parts of both cities, with its fortifications stretching over nine kilometers. What was the reason behind the construction of the continent’s largest defensive structure? A certain little Frenchman with an oversized ego.

Stadtpark Glacis City Park: From Napoleon to Art

All of Europe was still reeling from the shock of Napoleon, whose expansionist ambitions claimed an estimated 3.5 million lives. To guard against future imitators, the German Confederation built fortifications in the west. The remains of the fortress can hardly be seen in Ulm, but all the more so in Neu-Ulm, where they create fascinating contrasts.

The same applies to the Stadtpark Glacis City Park, which was created for the State Garden Show.  Stretching for a kilometer alongside the Danube River, it has become the most popular green retreat in the twin cities. Wild grapevines climb the fortress walls, while wisteria winds its way through the park. Stars from all over the world compete with the frogs on the lake stage. Even Sting has performed here. Under the towering trees, installation art gleams, and fountains provide cooling relief on hot summer days.

Leaving the park, we pass Caponniere 4. This section of the Federal Fortress, resembling a massive stone barge with a pointed bow, has been restored and now stands amid colorful, stylish new residential buildings.

A Splash of Color: Street Art at the Library

Crossing the Ringstraßen Bridge, which snakes elegantly through the treetops like a green tree python, we arrive at the large mural on the city library. This vibrant dreamscape was created by graffiti artist Philip Walch. In the artwork, a giant flying book spills its contents, Goethe appears as a detective, a fairy disappears into a book tunnel, and an astronaut reaches for a treasure floating in space.

From there, we continue on foot across Bradleystraße and into Wiley Park. Once home to nuclear missiles, this area now boasts expansive grassy fields, flower gardens, and cozy loungers by a small kiosk.

Wiley Area: A Park Instead of Missiles

Until the 1990s, the Wiley Quarter was a large U.S. military base. For 23 years, it also housed Pershing missiles, which were regularly used in drills. During these exercises, the towering missiles were erected, temporarily rising above the treetops of the area.

Today, the scene couldn’t be more different. Instead of military drills, the 18-hectare area features a playground with water games, a beach volleyball court, soccer and football fields, fitness equipment, and sprawling parklands. Students from the neighboring University of Applied Sciences enjoy a green campus dotted with large-scale art installations around the buildings.

We continue with a detour to the Iller floodplains. Although the Iller River is much smaller than the Danube, it’s far more accessible. We enjoy a picnic on one of the wide gravel banks, watching stand-up paddlers drift downstream toward the Illerspitze, where the Iller meets the Danube. We follow their lead and cross over to Ulm via the Adenauer Bridge.

The Fishermen’s Quarter of Ulm: Half-Timbered Charm Reloaded

Nestled between Ulm’s Minster and the Danube River, the Fishermen’s Quarter is a half-timbered dreamscape of narrow alleys, crooked houses, and bridges crossing the tiny Blau River, which once powered several mills. In the 19th century, this neighborhood of boatmen, tanners, and fishermen served as both their homes and workplaces.

The residents of the fishermen’s quarter were nicknamed „Räsen“

The residents of the fishermen’s quarter were nicknamed Räsen and were considered eccentric and a bit stubborn. Today, the area’s new inhabitants – often called hipsters – enjoy terraces right on the water.

But the quarter’s history could have turned out far worse, with demolition balls threatening its future, as happened in many other cities. By the early 20th century, the houses were falling into disrepair, with the situation worsening after World War II. Yet starting in the 1970s, the area experienced a spectacular revival as private initiatives saved the first buildings from decay.

The Ulmer Spatz, or Ulm sparrow, the city’s symbol, now perches in bronze over the water by an old mill. According to legend, there was once a time when the Ulm craftsmen weren’t exactly the sharpest tools in the shed. While building the Ulm Minster, they struggled to transport large wooden beams through the city gate. Just as they were about to demolish the gate in frustration, they noticed a clever sparrow elegantly carrying a twig in its beak – lengthwise, not crosswise! The gate was saved, and shortly after, the Ulm Minster began to take shape.

Ulm Minster: A Timeless Gothic Marvel

The effort was certainly worth it. The tower extends an impressive 161.53 meters to its peak. Only the Sagrada Família in Barcelona will one day surpass the Minster with a planned height of 170 meters – if it ever gets finished... The expansive Münsterplatz square in front of the building offers stunning views of this Gothic skyscraper, whose foundation was laid in 1377.

At that time, the parish church was located outside the city walls, making every visit a security risk. Thus, the decision was made to build a grand church within the city, a project that spanned many generations of builders and more than half a millennium. On May 31st, 1890, the final piece was put in place.

Ten years earlier, the Cologne Cathedral had been completed. But the Ulm builders quickly added a few extra meters to their tower, ensuring the Minster claimed the world record for the tallest church – a title it holds to this day.