"Hoimat" Artisan Cheese Dairy in the Allgäu

Some things just belong together. Weißwürste (white sausages) and sweet mustard. Salt and pretzels. The Allgäu and cheese. Who can think of the Allgäu without immediately picturing cheese? Or cows and meadows? Exactly. Cheese, cows, and meadows are central to this story. But wait, let’s get back to the cheese.

For most people, the Allgäu is synonymous with a specific kind of cheese: Bergkäse, or mountain cheese. “What many don’t know is that the Allgäu also has a soft cheese tradition that’s been somewhat forgotten,” explains Philipp Haggenmüller. Philipp, a cheesemaker, joined forces with Sebastian Herz and Lisa Benz to establish the young “Hoimat” Artisan Cheese Dairy in the village of Eschach. Their specialty? Soft cheese made from organic raw milk, crafted the traditional Allgäu way.

Out with the Old, In with the... Cheese!

Where once stood an old barn and stable, the new “Hoimat” artisan cheese dairy now sits proudly amidst the idyllic Allgäu landscape, surrounded by lush meadows and a stunning mountain panorama. The land on which this young cheese dairy was built belongs to Philipp’s family. The Haggenmüller family’s vacation farm, located right next door, is still in operation.

However, the 270-year-old farmstead has been transformed by the cheesemaking trio into a modern dairy with a shop and café. The ground floor is dedicated to all things dairy, while the upper level retains its original barn-like charm. This spacious room, once used for hay storage, is now available for events like weddings. Everything has been cleverly thought through and optimally repurposed.

Cheesemaking Climate in the Former Slurry Pit

“You have to provide mold with the optimum climate. It only grows where there is oxygen“

Optimal repurposing is a common theme at the dairy, even in the cellar, deep below. Here, different varieties of soft cheese mature undisturbed in separate rooms. “This used to be the slurry pit,” Philipp notes. Today, there’s no trace of that past.

The walls are made of red bricks, and the air humidity is precisely regulated to ensure the mold thrives on the soft cheese. “You have to provide mold with the optimum climate. Mold only grows where there’s oxygen,” according to Philipp. The bricks absorb moisture and release it again, creating an ideal environment for soft cheese, which is rigorously monitored.

In Seventh Cheese Heaven

Every cheese needs its own perfect mold-friendly climate. That’s why there’s a white smear cellar (for white mold cheeses) and a red smear cellar (for red smear cheeses). Small, white, and fluffy, the Camemberts lie carefully arranged on racks, competing to mold and ripen. They look like little cheese clouds.

“Camembert ripens in about four weeks, while Brie takes around eight,” says Sebastian. Gently, he picks up each cheese and flips it over to ensure the mold grows evenly. This flipping process happens roughly every other day.

In the adjoining cellar, the red smear cheeses rest. Known as “Rote Flüh” and “Törggeler,” both take about six weeks to ripen. “These soft cheeses are treated with red smear cultures, applied daily at first and later every other day.  The ‘Törggeler’ is enhanced with organic red wine,” says Philipp. That gives its rind a darker, almost black appearance.

“Hoimat” Stands for Appreciation, Enjoyment, Tradition, and Sustainability

One floor up, Lisa is behind the counter. A young man is buying cheese, milk, and yogurt from her. Outside, a couple enjoys coffee and cake. Locals and visitors alike – including cyclists out on excursions – love stopping by. “The word ‘Hoimat’ also contains ‘Hoi,’ which means ‘hay’ in the Allgäu dialect,” Lisa says with a wink.

“We wanted to combine an appreciation for nature, raw materials, and tradition with mindful enjoyment. The mountain meadows surrounding us provide the best raw material for our cheese and dairy products. We use only local organic hay milk,” Lisa explains. The artisan cheese dairy sources this milk from farmer Johannes Maidel, who runs Maidelhof, his farm with grazing cows, just a few meters from the cheese dairy.

Yellow Milk? Dandelions!

We take a short detour to Maidelhof. The youngest son of the Maidel family, together with his grandmother, is herding the cows from the meadow back to the farm. He knows each one by name. In the barn, the cows chew contentedly. The air smells of grass, hay, and the stable. Lisa grabs a handful of freshly cut mountain meadow grass. It’s mid-May, and the meadow is green and full of dandelions.

“Depending on the season and the condition of the meadow, the milk’s flavor changes.“

“Depending on the season and the condition of the meadow, the milk’s flavor changes. If the cows eat a lot of dandelions in early summer, like now, the milk turns more yellow than usual.” As the milk’s flavor changes, so does the taste of the cheese – it’s never exactly the same.  And that’s what makes it special. At “Hoimat,” these natural variations aren’t standardized but highlighted.

Behind the Scenes with the Cheesemaster

At “Hoimat,” visitors can experience firsthand how the various products are made. “In our glass-walled cheese dairy, you can watch step by step and learn how cheese is crafted,” says Lisa. The live cheesemaking demonstration takes place every Saturday at 1 p.m.

That’s when the young cheesemakers Philipp and Sebastian show their skills: using a cheese harp to cut the milk into curds, skimming them off, and placing the small pieces into round molds to shape the soft cheese. 

The milk is processed entirely without mechanical handling. “This keeps the milk natural and unadulterated – it tastes like nature,” Lisa explains as Philipp and Sebastian carefully cut, skim, stir, and monitor.  Inside the completely white-tiled room, everything is sterile. Anyone entering must wear a cap and gown, and disinfection is required beforehand.

Tasting with Cheese Sommelier Lisa

“In addition to live cheesemaking, we also offer tasting evenings where families or friends can sample our products,” Lisa shares. As a trained cheese sommelier, she explains with passion which wines or beers pair best with each cheese. Visitors can also enjoy a cheese board with bread at the café and sample the variety of flavors. So, what are you waiting for? Cheese, please!